3. Trekking from Camel Trophy Camp to Ginseng Camp (08/07)

We left Camel Trophy Camp in the late morning and had quite a pleasant trek most of the way to Ginseng Camp. It was the first time in Maliau Basin that we had the golden opportunity to look out for and admire some of the rare and beautiful flora.

We arrived at Ginseng Camp in the late afternoon. Again there was no electricity supply in the camp because there was no fuel for the generator! And we had to endure total darkness for two nights in this Camp!

Included in today’s itinerary is a visit to Ginseng Falls, 15 minutes away from the camp. Again by the time we reached the camp, the rangers had to start preparing dinner before the sun set and therefore we missed the chance to see the Falls today.

4. Trekking to Maliau Falls (09/07)

Maliau Falls is said to be the largest and the most spectacular waterfalls in Maliau Basin. It is a 7-tiered fall of about 28m high on Maliau River.

We left early and were pleased that we did not have to carry our backpacks as we would be returning to the camp for the night. We were also told that we need not carry a lot drinking water with us because one of the rangers would carry additional water to the Lobah Camp to supplement our water supply on our return journey. I estimated that I needed 1.5 liter of water for the return trek and because part of it would be available on our way back, I decided to carry along only 1.0 liter. We were also told to bring our touches because we might return late in the evening.

The first part of the trek (3km+) was pleasant and we reached the abandoned Lobah Camp site by about 10am. The camp site is on top of a hill and is a scenic stopover with a vast panoramic view of the Basin’s rim.

The scenic view of the Basin’s rim at Lobah Camp site

The trek from the Lobah camp site to Maliau Falls was steep and we reached our destination at about noon. As in all other waterfalls in Maliau Basin, the huge volume of water thundering down from the ledge is tinted with brown tannin.

Again we saw only the upper tiers of the Maliau Falls. After taking our packed lunch we started our return journey before 1pm because the sky was overcast and Bill, the ranger, feared that the sky would open up soon, not knowing that with me around, it seldom happens. It was just a short drizzle to bid us fairway!

I finished half a liter of my water during lunch and by the time I reached the Lobah Camp site I finished the remaining half liter. But no water was left anywhere at the designated site and nobody was in sight. I asked Bill about it and he told me to wait if I needed water to continue; but he would not know how long I had to wait. The rest of the group had very little water left to share with me along the way back to the camp. I had therefore to look for a stream to get my supply. At the Lobah Camp site there were three abandoned rain water tanks. Kenny went to check on one and discovered that there was “clear” water flowing out of the tap. He filled up my two ½-litre bottles and I immediately used one to cool down my head and had a gulp. It was tasteless but I could not be certain that it was not contaminated. We continued our journey and I tried not to drink the water from the rain water tank. Luckily KC allowed me to have a couple of sips from his diminishing supply.

The trail back to the camp was quite gentle and downhill. Midway, we came to a stream. I went to a small tributary nearby with crystal clear water to wash my face, have a gulp and fill up my bottle. Feeling refreshed, I quickened my pace leaving all the rest behind except Bill who tagged along all the way back to the camp. And the rest is history!

We returned to camp about 4pm and the sky was still bright and clear. Why did we have to carry our touches?

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